STYLE Edit: Richard Milles RM 020 tourbillon reinterprets the classic pocket watch

It all starts with the baseplate, which uniquely for a pocket watch is non-metallic. An isotropic composite material created of carbon nanofibres moulded under high temperature and pressure gives extraordinary stability, as evidenced by its original use in US air force jets.

This high degree of integrity under any conditions merits an expanded use of the material across the Richard Mille tourbillon portfolio. It’s all part of a commitment to experimentation with new materials, pushing the boundaries in typical Richard Mille fashion.

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The carbon nanofibre has serious aesthetic value. While the face is an absolute wonderland of moving parts, the back has a very restrained elegance – the modular time setting mechanism with its beautifully finished wheels is set against the black of the carbon nanofibre, giving it an architectural simplicity. This position also has the obvious advantage of ease of maintenance, with no dismantling required.

We have learnt to expect the unexpected from Richard Mille. So forget a round case – the is a rectangular watch, 62mm long and 52mm wide. The case band is titanium with front and back bezels in 18ct red gold, white gold or titanium and titanium spline screws to hold the bridges on to the case. The watch chain, too, is titanium with a quick release mechanism. The torque limiting, Cheval-manufactured crown at 12 o’clock activates the function selector through winding, neutral and setting, shown on the dial by a small hand at 4 o’clock. By its very nature it prevents the overwinding that can be so damaging. It’s deceptively simple as the chain, clasp, crown cover and desk stand required 580 separate operations and have 189 component parts.

As well as the function selector gauge, the 10-day power reserve is indicated on the dial by a numeric scale between 9 and 10 o’clock. These are unobtrusive while the white numerals and tipped hours and minutes hands are big and bold. It is looking deep into the face that shows where the magic happens.

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Back in the day, gentlemen who owned pocket watches travelled on horseback or in carriages over bumpy roads, which did not help precision timekeeping. The invention of the tourbillon in the 19th century gave pocket watches much needed stability. Like the desk stand, the tourbillon harks back to the early days of pocket watch history. Just as transforming a pocket watch to a pendulette de bureau is a stylish extension of its use, it is also apparent that incorporating a tourbillon in the RM 020 is both a salute to the past and a practical feature.

Pocket watch designers and manufactures were always addressing issues to improve performance. The RM 020 features the variable inertia, free sprung balance with overcool spring that was designed for earlier generations of pocket watches. It protects against adverse responses to shocks or assembling and reassembling the movement.

This by no means exhausts the distinctive technical features of the RM 020 that includes a barrel pawl with progressive recoil, winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion among others – but Richard Mille aficionados will know that nothing has been overlooked. This is a pocket watch for the 21st century, a superb timepiece and a striking accessory, with a personality all its own.

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